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How To Paint Wood Windows Interior

Near people recall they know how to paint, and usually the results are pretty good. But for painting contractor John Dee, "pretty good" isn't good enough. After near three decades of rolling, brushing, and spraying paint he knows the subtle tricks for applying smooth, even coats to walls, ceilings, and woodwork, and for creating crisp boundaries between colors.

According to Dee, there's no magic to getting professional-looking results. Practice helps, and thorough surface preparation is essential. But the key, he says, is to pigment in an orderly, systematic style. So whether he's painting a multi-paneled door or a flat expanse of wall, he gain almost scientifically from one step to the next, with no shortcuts. "Your approach to the task, the order in which you practise things, can speed the work or dull yous down," Dee says. "Here's the approach that works best for me."

Step 1

Painting a Room Overview

Illustration by Gregory Nemec


Tip: As a dominion of thumb, work from the center out, and always paint rails earlier stiles.

Pace two

Sand Flat Woodwork

Photograph by David Carmack

Subsequently wiping down any dirty woodwork with a household cleaner, sand the trim, doors, and windows with 120-grit silicon-carbide sandpaper. Sand one-time paint so new pigment can adhere. Sand bare wood to remove raised grain, level off woods filler, and ease over sharp edges.

When sanding apartment surfaces, hold the sandpaper in your mitt to go into any slight depressions that a rigid sanding block would miss.

Pace 3

Sanding Contours

Photo by David Carmack

On profiled moldings, use a soft sanding cake or sanding sponge that conforms to the shape of the molding. Have intendance not to let the sandpaper touch drinking glass; it volition get out scratches.

When the sanding is done, dust the woodwork with an old, worn brush or a store vacuum. So wipe information technology clean with a tack cloth.

Tip: "Bank check paper regularly for wear," Dee says. "It'southward fourth dimension to switch to fresh newspaper when you feel that your elbow is doing more of the piece of work."

Step 4

Prime number

Photo past David Carmack

If walls and ceilings are bare plaster, coat with oil-based or all-purpose acrylic primer. Then prime bare, sanded woodwork to ensure good adhesion of the end coats. Information technology's non necessary to prime previously painted surfaces if they're in good status.

Follow the bones application, distribution, and tipping steps outlined in "Technique." On doors and windows, follow the sequence detailed in "Paint past Number."

Permit primer to dry overnight, then sand lightly with 220-grit sandpaper. Make clean up the grit with vacuum and tack material before applying concluding coats.

Tip: Before using a brush, saturate it with water (for latex pigment) or pigment thinner (for oil-based paint). Flex the bristles so the fluid can achieve upward into the brush'southward ferrule. Spin or tap the brush dry; it volition be easier to clean, thereby extending its life.

Stride v

Fill Holes

Photo by David Carmack

Utilise lightweight spackling compound and a putty knife to fill small holes or cracks. Push spackling compound in, then smooth the patch. Once the chemical compound is dry out, spot prime the patch or completely re-prime number the walls, depending on size of the repair.

On new woodwork, overfill nail holes with a water-based wood filler to let for shrinkage, then allow it to dry before sanding.

Step half dozen

Caulk Joints

Photograph by David Carmack

Caulk the gaps between the primed woodwork and the walls. Pull the caulk gun in a smoothen motion as you clasp its trigger. The goal is to apply but as much caulk as needed. Control the flow of caulk by adjusting the trigger force per unit area and the speed at which you pull the tip forth. Polish the fresh caulk with a moisture finger.

Tip: To avoid applying as well much caulk, use a utility pocketknife to carefully shave slivers from the tube's spout until a hole emerges. Bevel the sides of the tip and then it'll fit snugly into gap betwixt wall and trim.

Stride seven

Paint the Ceiling

Photo by David Carmack

With a castor or pad, use a 2- to two one/2-inch-wide band of paint forth the edges of the ceiling; this is called "cutting in". Try to make straight, even lines without masking tape. Wipe away whatsoever mistakes away with a rag.

Dip a roller mounted on an extension pole into a roller pan filled halfway with paint. Run the roller over the pan's shallow end until the roller encompass is evenly coated with pigment.

Starting at one corner, mentally department the ceiling into 3-foot squares and utilise the basic steps outlined in "Technique." Work your manner across the width of the room, one square at a time.

Step 8

Paint the Woodwork

Photograph past David Carmack

Brush the commencement finish glaze onto the woodwork. For the doors and windows, follow the application sequence in "Pigment by Number." When the paint is completely dry out, sand the paint lightly with 220-grit sandpaper, then wipe away whatsoever dust with a tack material.

Next, apply the last finish coat. If you get paint on glass, wait for it to dry out, so remove it with a window scraper. To prevent scratching the glass, moisture the surface first with window cleaner.

Tip: "You want to leave a narrow strip of paint on the glass to seal the wood from moisture. Hold the border of a half-dozen-inch-broad putty knife blade confronting the glass, with its flat side confronting the woods, and scrape upward to it. Y'all'll be left with an neat, even strip of paint on the glass that's the thickness of the bract."

Stride 9

Paint the Walls

Photo by David Carmack

When baseboard paint is dry, cover the top of the molding with blue masking tape. Using a brush or pad, cut in around the window and door trim first, then cut in along the baseboard and at the ceiling or crown molding.

Paint the walls using a roller on an extension handle. Mentally section the wall off in squares roughly 3 or 4 anxiety wide, and piece of work from the meridian down. Follow the basic steps outlined in "Technique." In one case the paint is dry, remove whatever nubs by scraping the wall with a putty knife. For glossier sheens, sand lightly with 150-grit paper, so wipe away grit with a tack material. Roll on the final coat, then remove the masking tape equally shortly every bit paint has fix; pull it slowly to avert tears.

Source: https://www.thisoldhouse.com/painting/21016491/how-to-paint-doors-windows-and-walls

Posted by: greenetryalk1966.blogspot.com

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